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2024/05/29

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  • About engine overhaul of CBX1000

    The popularity was split between the 70s and 80s, and currently the Z series has a larger market share, but I'll write about the differences. The main difference between the CB-F and Z series engines is the number of valves. The Z series has two valves, while the CB-F series has four. Putting aside the things that are not immediately accessible or visible, such as a strong engine or powerful output, it all comes down to this one point.

  • FCR Tuning – Should the Slow Jet Be Changed According to the Season?

    Tuning the FCR requires adjustments based on the weight of air and fuel. As the temperature drops, the density of the air increases, making the air heavier. In response, it is necessary to either increase the weight (amount) of the fuel or reduce the amount of air.

  • FCR Tuning – To What Extent Should Carburetor Synchronization Be Done?

    How Far Should Carburetor Synchronization Be Done?When performing synchronization using a vacuum gauge, there are graduations to consider.Is it acceptable for the reading to be off by one graduation?Does even the width of the black line on the gauge count as an error?There are many questions. Recently, I was able to hear the answer from the legend, Mr. Bito.

  • With the FCR, you can start the engine even on early winter mornings.

    I will write about starting the engine of a motorcycle with a carburetor in the early winter mornings. Logically speaking, the Honda Cub, which was commonly used for newspaper delivery in the past, starts the engine easily with the choke and kick start, even on cold winter mornings. Now, regarding motorcycles equipped with FCR carburetors, they don’t have a choke, but you can use the accelerator pump as a substitute. By twisting the throttle about three times and then waiting for about 10 seconds before turning on the starter motor, the engine starts up normally.

  • re the standard brakes of classic motorcycles low in performance? I customized my brakes.

    Comparison of brakes from the past and present: Even when comparing a CBX1000 equipped with a recently manufactured complete brake system to a CBX1000 that is using well-maintained, 40-year-old brakes, the performance difference is significant.

  • For FCR Beginners – Don’t use the red Velocity Stack on the street as it is!

    When you purchase an FCR, it comes with a red Velocity Stack. It’s a 30mm red plastic Velocity Stack. The Velocity Stack of the FCR can be considered the 'exhaust' on the intake side. It is an essential part for smoothing the airflow.

  • FCR Tuning – When changing the straight diameter of the jet needle, also adjust the clip position.

    When you change the straight diameter of the jet needle, you may need to change the clip position as well, or else the performance can become quite poor. It’s difficult to specify exactly how many steps you should change the straight diameter before adjusting the clip position, but it seems reasonable to think that changing the straight diameter by about five steps would correspond to a change of approximately one clip position.

  • Is it true that classic cars are prone to breaking down? As long as the engine is intact, it can be managed.

    For those of you who are contemplating whether or not to purchase a vintage motorcycle, I think this is an interesting topic. My conclusion is that as long as the engine is running, it can be managed. If you aim to faithfully reproduce the looks and performance of the motorcycle when it was new, maintaining it might be impossible, but if the goal is simply to ensure it runs smoothly, the challenges become much easier to overcome.

  • The recommended installation position for the air-fuel ratio gauge is at the center of the meter.

    Where do you all mount your air-fuel ratio gauges? The air-fuel ratio gauge needs to be carefully monitored during high-speed runs, especially on straight stretches of road where it’s crucial to check the readings. On my CBX1000, I’ve removed the stock voltmeter and positioned the air-fuel ratio gauge right in the center of the meter cluster for easy visibility.

  • FCR Tuning – Changing Slow Jets, Adjusting Air Screw and Pilot Screw – 2023-11-09

    It’s important to make adjustments to the FCR as soon as you notice something off. I’m considering adjusting the throttle low opening screw range and the air-fuel ratio at wide open throttle to be about 1.0 richer. I changed the Slow Jets (SJ) and Main Jets (MJ). This year, I decided not to change the SJ.

  • FCR Tuning – If the pilot screw is set to 1.00 turns out, it may not be adjusted sufficiently.

    In FCR tuning, the initial values for the screws are typically set to an air screw (AS) of 1.00 and a pilot screw (PS) of 1.00, as stated in the tuning manual. This content suggests that there might be an additional level of power available even after achieving what seems like the best tuning.

  • I went to the 2023 – 11th BITO JB-POWER Meeting.

    I attended the 11th JB-POWER Meeting on October 29, 2023 (Sunday). I will focus mainly on the atmosphere of the venue. Photos are compiled at the bottom, separate from the text. My personal reflections will be kept modest, and I will primarily guide you through the venue's ambiance.

  • FCR Tuning – Regularly resetting the air screw and pilot screw can improve performance.

    The FCR air screw and pilot screw are parts that can be adjusted continuously. In contrast, the slow jet and main jet needle can only be adjusted with specific sizes. The air screw is easily accessible once you remove the filter or velocity stack, making it straightforward to observe changes.

  • FCR Tuning – Having an air-fuel ratio gauge is useful for adjusting the pilot screw.

    Having an air-fuel ratio gauge (A/F meter) is convenient for FCR tuning. Even without a gauge, you can achieve precise settings through real-world riding once you get accustomed to it. You can adjust mid to high-speed settings based solely on your feel. In fact, it might be better not to get too caught up in the numbers. However, it can be challenging to determine whether the throttle opening at low speeds is functioning well or poorly.

  • Does the scope of the FCR tuning manual affect the throttle opening or the valve opening?

    This is regarding the scope presented on page 8 of the FCR tuning manual. This page indicates the impact range of tuning, but it raises the question of whether the X-axis refers to the throttle opening or the valve opening. This is something I posted about recently; the throttle opening and valve opening of the FCR are not directly proportional.

  • FCR Tuning – To what extent does the main jet affect the throttle opening range? – 2023-09-19

    I'm describing the effects of changing the main jet, focusing on how it influences throttle positions other than full throttle. After changing the main jet, I went for a test run. My assessment is centered around the changes observed from around half-throttle to three-quarters throttle rather than focusing solely on the full throttle range.

  • FCR Tuning – Adjusting Accelerator Pump Discharge Timing and Straight – 2023-09-12

    I’m framing this as fine-tuning rather than tuning in the strictest sense. The tuning of the FCR is the result of repeated A/B testing. It’s a process of searching for jets that improve performance, and then finding even better jets from those improvements.

  • The throttle opening and throttle valve opening of the FCR carburetor are not directly proportional.

    Even when the throttle is opened to 1/2 on an FCR, the throttle valve on the FCR does not open to 1/2. This is not specifically mentioned in the FCR tuning manual. Knowing this might change your perspective on the operation of the FCR throttle. At 1/2 throttle opening, the throttle valve is typically open only about 1/4.

  • With the quick turn throttle housing, you can set the throttle free play to 0mm!

    When installing a quick turn throttle, one feature that is not present in a standard throttle housing is the throttle stop screw function. Although it might sound elaborate, it is simply a screw hole that has been cut. It is a bolt used to adjust the minimum return position of the throttle.

  • Throttle grip wiring – The FCR is a push-pull carburetor. Its direct operational feel is very appealing.

    For adjusting the throttle area, there's no problem at all in thinking that you can easily do it yourself without needing to rely on a professional. For such tasks, you can usually find methods by searching online. If you still have trouble, you can consult a local motorcycle enthusiast, and you’ll likely find a solution.

  • FCR Tuning – Testing 6 Variations of Accelerator Pump Diaphragm – 2023-08-22

    One of the highlights of FCR carburetors is the accelerator pump. This time, instead of making just minor adjustments, I performed tuning with all the diaphragms I have on the same day. The accelerator pump diaphragms tested were Standard, KLX250, and KLX400, with discharge timings of 1.0mm and 0.5mm, resulting in a total of 6 different patterns.

  • Adjustment of Motorcycle Throttle Free Play

    Throttle Free Play Basics. The standard throttle free play is typically set to 5mm. Additionally, it’s essential to ensure that the throttle returns properly when the handlebars are turned left and right. This ensures that the throttle operates correctly and safely.

  • FCR Tuning – Adjusting the air screw to the appropriate setting after changing the slow jet – 2023-08-13

    The position of the air screw has been adjusted to slightly less than 0.30 minutjes return. The pilot jet has been changed from 45 to 48. This air screw setting in summer may not be ideal for winter, as it would likely need to be adjusted (tightened) during colder months.

  • How much gasoline is accumulated in the float chamber of the FCR carburetor?

    For the FCR carburetor on the CBX1000, it holds about 100cc to 150cc. I took some photos when I changed the slow jet. I will be discussing how to handle gasoline when changing the main jet or slow jet on the FCR carburetor.

  • FCR Tuning – Re-synchronization after adjusting the throttle cable – 2023-08-01

    I synchronize the FCR carburetors on my CBX1000 more than 10 times a year. Whether 10 times is a lot or not, I’m not sure. It’s not that I feel the synchronization has drifted while riding and then correct it. Rather, it’s because minor misalignments occur when I perform tuning and have to remove and reattach parts.

  • FCR Tuning – Tuning the main jet at full throttle is fun.

    As you gradually open the throttle from a low position, you will adjust the relevant jets and screws. Once the low-throttle setting is in good condition, the main jet (MJ) is often already in a good or near-good state as well

  • Spark Plug Replacement – The Idling of Carbureted Engines Smells Like Gasoline

    If you feel that the idling is off, replacing the spark plugs and then re-tuning is a viable option. Tuning involves various interconnected factors, and the spark plugs might be one of the causes of irregular idling. By replacing the spark plugs, you eliminate one potential concern.

  • FCR Tuning – Adjusting the Jets Slightly Leaner for Summer

    When discussing carburetor tuning, terms like "rich" and "lean" are often used. These terms can be a bit confusing for beginners.

  • FCR Tuning – Full Throttle! How lean can the main jet go? Will the engine hold up?

    I have performed full-throttle runs with a main jet size of 102 on my CBX1000.This is a discussion about how lean the main jet can be set based on past experiences.I should clarify that I haven’t tested it to the point of damaging the engine, and the testing is therefore insufficient. The inadequacy of the testing is due to the fact that it has not been tested until the piston melts.

  • 3 Reasons Why Used FCR Carburetors Can Be Used

    When you perform the overhaul yourself, it generally ends up being quite cost-effective. This is specifically if you handle the overhaul personally. If you don’t have jets and other parts on hand, it's recommended to use the Carburetor Parts Kit for FCR - KEYSTAR. If you already have some FCR parts, you can buy individual parts separately and complete the overhaul that way.

  • FCR requires a filter for street use. Constant use of a velocity stack is not recommended.

    This applies not only to FCRs but to all carburetors in general: going filterless on the street is not recommended. This is because it sucks in debris. I will write a column discussing why it’s better to avoid this and what you should do instead.

  • FCR Tuning – Acceleration Pump Discharge Timing Adjustment – Finalized as is – 2023-06-20

    FCR Tuning for CBX1000. I was concerned about the discharge start position of the acceleration pump, so I conducted a test ride. As a result, I ended up making changes and then reverting to the original settings. There wasn’t much noticeable difference.

  • FCR Tuning – Test Ride with Awareness of Shift Position – 2023-06-17

    I'm still not quite able to tune it perfectly yet. Recently, I had the opportunity to ride on the highway. During the ride, I noticed something: I realized that I haven't been tuning with much attention to the shift position.

  • Carburetor synchronization is not the kind of maintenance where you can fail – the challenging part is the preparation.

    Carburetor synchronization is a task that can be considered simple. The challenging part is that the preparation before the task can be a high hurdle for beginners. Once the preparation is complete, most people are able to successfully perform the synchronization on their own.

  • FCR Tuning – Adjusting throttle openings below 1/4 with the air screw, slow jet, and jet needle straight diameter – 2023-06-11

    This time, I will write about the air screw, slow jet, and the straight diameter of the jet needle from my perspective. This primarily concerns the throttle openings from about 1/4 to 1/2. Recently, I addressed and improved the issue where the throttle would hesitate during rapid opening—whether it was lean or rich was unclear. I will document the improvements made.

  • FCR Tuning – Jet Needle Clip Position and Accelerator Pump Diaphragm Replacement – 2023-06-10

    I was concerned about the throttle opening being less than 1/4, so I made some adjustments. Here’s what I did:①Changed the clip position on the jet needle.②Set the acceleration pump diaphragm to the standard output.I will discuss both points. There is an important note: do not perform these adjustments simultaneously.

  • FCR Tuning – Adjusting Accelerator Pump Timing and Air Screw – 2023-06-05

    Recently, I was concerned about the throttle opening being less than 1/4, so I made various adjustments. It seemed that the AS (air screw) wasn’t opened enough, so I opened it slightly more, and it felt significantly better. I also experimented with the accelerator pump by turning it off, setting it to 0.6mm, and then to 1.0mm, and adjusted the discharge timing accordingly.

  • Which is better, the Keihin FCR carburetor or the CRS carburetor? Of course, the FCR carburetor.

    I’m writing a column comparing which is superior between the FCR and CRS carburetors. It’s not just a broad statement that the FCR is better because it’s a newer model. Instead, I’ve heard compelling explanations from professionals that should make you understand why.

  • FCR Tuning – Adjust the air screw to be slightly lean within the possible range, then adjust the accelerator pump – 23/05/27

    I adjusted the air screw’s return setting and also changed the start position of the accelerator pump’s discharge. It’s been a while since I worked on the FCR. After a light morning ride with the usual 9F rider, I did the tuning.

  • FCR Tuning – Changing the Straight Diameter of the JN Jet Needle – 2023/05/09

    CBX1000 FCR Setting.Since last month, I have been gradually fine-tuning the settings. The idle and main jet are mostly decided. I’m focusing on the range affected by the straight diameter of the JN (Jet Needle), so this time I will change the straight diameter and take it for a test ride to see how it performs.

  • FCR Tuning – JN Jet Needle Straight Diameter and Clip Position – 23/05/03

    Since changing the main jet, I’ve felt a power increase in my CBX1000. I’ve also been interested in trying changes to the slow jet and jet needle. I generally avoid adjusting the SJ (slow jet) when tuning the FCR, unless it’s beyond the adjustment range of the AS (air screw). For this reason, I decided to change the JN (jet needle).

  • FCR Tuning – Carburetor Synchronization – Is the Balance of Your Vacuum Gauge Correct?

    I will be writing a column about the zero calibration of vacuum gauge needles. To put it briefly, it's advisable to assume that the zero position of the needles on a four-bank vacuum gauge is generally miscalibrated.

  • Pingel Power-Flo fuel petcock for FCR – My favorite part

    I took some photos of the fuel petcock area in my rental garage, so I will write about that. It should be somewhat useful for those who want to introduce a Pingel petcock to older generation bikes. I like Pingel petcocks and have posted about them in the past.

  • FCR Tuning – Is an Air/Fuel Ratio Meter (A/F Meter) a Necessary Equipment?

    Is an air/fuel ratio meter (A/F meter) necessary for tuning the FCR on the CBX1000? Yes, it is. Even if you are not working with a CBX1000, an air/fuel ratio meter is essential for setting up a carburetor.

  • FCR Tuning – Main Jet Change – 23/04/14

    This post is a continuation of the blog where I talked about the test ride after tuning the FCR on my CBX1000. The change to the MJ (main jet) has been confirmed to lean out the mixture, going from 125 to 120. Although I mentioned in my previous blog that I was unsure which JN (jet needle) to choose, I realized that there is no need to change the JN immediately. Therefore, I decided to start by changing only the MJ.

  • FCR Tuning – 23/04/12 – Considering the Jet Needle Strategy

    The other day, when I used the CBX1000 to go to a motorcycle event, I spent a long time on the highway. This is a story about checking the FCR's performance in terms of riding dynamics. Although I say I checked it, my overall impression was that the feeling I achieved seemed to be quite rich.

  • Work at the rental pit on 23/03/27 – Synchronization of the FCR carburetor and spark plug replacement were completed.

    Recently, I completed the front tire replacement for the CBX1000. Today, I finished the FCR synchronization work, replaced the spark plugs, and performed another round of synchronization. Additionally, I have also completed the preparation for an oil change. I replaced the oil filter and drained the oil.

  • What are the disadvantages of a racing carburetor? – Regular maintenance is required.

    I will be writing a column about the necessity of maintenance for racing carburetors. Please understand that my views may differ from conventional thinking. It’s likely that many people use racing carburetors in street applications without much consideration.

  • Work at the rental pit on 23/03/25 – Installing the FCR and removing the front tire

    This is part of the winter maintenance work on my CBX1000. The plan for today was to replace the vacuum release plate and complete the synchronization work, but due to an easy mistake, I drained the battery. I’ve changed the plan to get the work done up to just before the synchronization and also complete the removal and installation of the tires.

  • Work at the rental pit – 24/03/23 – Removal of FCR carburetor. Removal of throttle valve.

    Winter Maintenance on the CBX1000 - I’m gradually progressing with the work at the rental pit. It’s better than not making any progress at all. I tried to get as much done as possible, even if it was just for an hour. The tasks completed so far include removing the FCR carburetor and taking out the throttle valves inside it.

  • Which racing carburetor should you choose? FCR, TMR, TMR-MJN, CRS, or others…

    I will write about choosing racing carburetors based on my own biases. This is more of a column-type content and does not necessarily reflect knowledge from personal experience. Besides the Japanese-made racing carburetors mentioned in the title, there are also brands like Dell'Orto. As I love Japanese-made products for their easy parts availability, I will focus on domestic options and not cover foreign products.

  • FCR Carburetor Tuning – Slightly rich or too rich. It’s best to keep it at a slightly rich level.

    Regarding the tuning of the FCR carburetor on the CBX1000, my recent trend has been to tune it to a slightly rich setting. If the optimal air-fuel ratio is 12.5, I aim for around 12.0, considering that the mixture might lean out when the throttle is opened.

  • Is it easy for beginners to tune an FCR carburetor?

    FCRs have a wide tuning range and are said to be easy to set up... I sometimes see comments like this online, though I'm not sure how accurate they are. In my case, I've only worked on tuning FCRs for the CBX1000, so it's hard to say definitively. However, if you're doing rough and basic tuning, it is relatively simple.

  • Motorcycle Intake Systems – Which is Better, Fuel Injection or Carburetor? What are the Differences?

    I write about FCR carburetors all year round, but this time I will cover the differences between fuel injection and carburetors. While I can’t go into great detail, I’ll provide a rough overview. For those unfamiliar, this might serve as a small topic for tomorrow’s ride. To get straight to the point: fuel injection is simply outstanding.

  • Installing the cowl on CBX is not difficult.

    I received a question about installing a cowl on the CBX, so I will write about it in a column-like manner. Bikini cowls can be easily installed on almost any naked bike. Let's move on with the subject being a frame-mounted cowl.

  • I want to synchronize the FCR carburetor myself after installing it.

    Whether it's a CBX1000's six-cylinder or any multi-cylinder carbureted motorcycle, if you own one, you'll likely want to handle the synchronization yourself. Standard vacuum-type carburetors are not frequently tuned, so many people leave this task to professionals.

  • FCR tuning – It is easier to make a judgment if you do the final check by test riding with two motorcycles.

    When tuning the FCR on the CBX1000, I believe that comparing is important. Often, it's not possible to determine if something is good or bad based on just one factor. In my case, since I have an air-fuel ratio meter installed on my CBX1000, I can judge the performance based on the numbers. However, if the gauge is even slightly off, the readings may not be reliable.

  • Long-term storage of the FCR carburetor – Drain the gasoline from the drain bolt.

    This is a column-like post about the FCR, focusing on the CBX1000. Japan is still experiencing winter weather, with many areas covered in snow. Although we have passed the winter solstice and Setsubun, we are heading towards spring. I will be writing an article about winter storage or long-term storage.

  • FCR Tuning – For street use, be sure to check the throttle response at the initial opening.

    The FCR is a racing carburetor, but in reality, most users spend the majority of their time using it on the street. An important aspect in the street scene is starting. On the street, there are traffic lights, which means frequent stops and starts. On the track, once you start, there is rarely a complete stop.

  • FCR Tuning – Easily Adjusting for Each Season

    There are various owners when it comes to tuning FCR, ranging from those who want it to be perfect to those who are satisfied with around 80% accuracy. Among them, many owners prefer to adjust the FCR only within the range they can access.

  • Will fuel efficiency improve if I switch from a normal carburetor to an FCR carburetor?

    This column will discuss whether installing racing carburetors like the FCR will improve a motorcycle's fuel efficiency. I have previously written similar articles, briefly addressing whether fuel efficiency improves. This time, I will write directly on the topic of whether fuel efficiency increases.

  • FCR Tuning – Please check if the pilot screw is working correctly

    If possible, please check if the pilot screw is functioning correctly in this column-like post. If adjustment is difficult, fixing it at 1.00 turn out is also acceptable. Some people advise not to touch the pilot screw, while others recommend fixing it at 1.00 turn out. The pilot screw can allow the engine to idle even when fully closed.

  • FCR Tuning – The air screw is set to one turn back as a baseline. How much should it be adjusted?

    CBX1000のブログを書いている事がきっかけで、知らない人からエアスクリューの戻しの調整について、色々教えてくれとリアルでご質問を受けました。365回ブログを書くという事を目標としていて自分の為にブログを書いているのですが、ブログから反応があると嬉しい物です。

  • FCR settings – The symptoms of being too rich while riding are easy to recognize if you pay attention.

    This is a story about a time when I couldn't figure out the cause and was troubled for a long time.The accelerator pump was too rich, and when the throttle was opened quickly, the air-fuel ratio meter indicated 10 for a few seconds.After that, the bike would accelerate energetically.

  • FCR – Once you have installed Quick turn throttle, change the tuning accordingly

    Do you need a quick turn throttle? Or not? The answer is rider preference. But it does add one more thing to your riding. You can open the throttle fully by twisting it once. This is something you can't do without a quick turn throttle.

  • FCR Tuning – Symptoms of too rich and too lean – Air-fuel ratio meter also recommended

    When tuning FCR, you will always see these words. [rich] [lean] They seem clear, but they are very vague. For example, there are various expressions for rich, such as [little rich] and [too rich].

  • 4 points to note about gasoline leaks during FCR tuning

    When I was tuning the FCR of my CBX1000, I once had a gasoline leak. I was very sad. I would like to write about it. First of all, when gasoline leaks from the carburetor, it is almost always a man-made disaster. When it comes to aging, it is a man-made disaster caused by neglecting maintenance. When it comes to aging, it is not clear where the gasoline leak will come from.

  • Improving fuel efficiency with FCR carburetors

    I occasionally see arguments about the fuel economy of FCR, both positive and negative. If I were to write about it on social media, it would lead to arguments with others, so I'm posting it on my blog. I think the right answer lies within each of us. I'll write my opinions in a column format.

  • I love CBX’s painted accessories.

    This story uses photos taken at a rental garage. My CBX has a repainted exterior. We also store the normal exterior separately.

  • FCR – Tuning with easy-access jets in mind

    CBX1000のFCRを触る時はつい最近までは気になったらすぐにジェットを変更するように心がけていました。私は趣味でFCRのセッティングをしています。時間効率の優先度は低いです。納得出来て満足できる結果が優先です。もちろん、手間だと感じる事もあります。

  • FCR Tuning – Will tuning improve the return to idle?

    There is one thing I pay attention to when tuning the FCR of the CBX1000. That is, I frequently adjust the synchronization of the carburetor. This time, I will write about the return to idle of the FCR when idling, including synchronization. In the first place, everything I write may be a placebo effect. However, there may be some points that are correct. Please read it with that in mind.

  • If I use an FCR-Ram Air Filter, will it be okay to use it in the rain?

    This is about the CBX1000 ram air filter. I remember writing an article before asking, "Is it okay to use it without a filter even in the rain?" As long as you apply filter oil, it's generally fine.

  • I found a box for a CBX1000 FCR from over 20 years ago in the back of my room.

    This is the box that my CBX1000 FCR came in. It's not uncommon to find parts from decades ago. It's a little unusual to find just the box. The contents are still in good working order. Judging from the packaging of the box, is it the same as the CRS carburetor? The illustration shows the CRS carburetor, not the FCR.

  • FCR Tuning – What is the air-fuel ratio at idle?

    As the title suggests, this is about the air-fuel ratio of the FCR when idling. The air-fuel ratio of my CBX1000 when idling is around 13.5 when the engine is cold, and around 12.9 when the engine is warm. This is just based on my current preference. A senior Z enthusiast told me that the air-cooled Z series is 14.

  • FCR Tuning – Tuning that becomes worse due to jet changes is within the acceptable range of effects.

    What does it mean to tolerate poor performance? I will write about the tuning that makes the performance worse. FCR tuning is a repetition of AB testing. If there is no change even after adjusting the carburetor, it cannot be compared. It is possible to get a result that there was no change, but if you cannot compare, you cannot tune the FCR.

  • FCR tuning – If you make the jet needle straight diameter lean, it may be pointless to make the jet rich…

    This is a description from the history of CBX1000 FCR tuning. It may not be useful, but if you intentionally unbalance the jet, you can use a jet that you can't use. In particular, the CBX1000 tends to run out of clip stages.

  • I got the spark plug wet! If you use the accelerator pump too much, you will get into big trouble.

    This is a story about when the spark plug gets wet. When the spark plug gets wet, it means that the engine is having a hard time starting and gasoline is sprayed onto the spark plug, making it wet. The same applies if there is oil on the spark plug. It also includes other things like carbon buildup.

  • FCR Tuning – Jet Search Order from Initial Tuning

    I received an email asking about the FCR of a CBX1000. I'm an amateur, but I try to provide information diligently in my own way. I'm not doing this commercially, but I'm very happy when I get a reaction from the web. This time, I'll write about the order in which you should tune the FCR from the factory.

  • FCR Tuning – Synchronizing six FCRs is the best part of tuning

    Carburetor synchronization is the best part of tuning an FCR. It's one of the things you want to learn the moment you realize you want to be able to tune. This blog post is not going to be mainly about how to synchronize a CBX1000. It's going to be a column about the importance of synchronization.

  • FCR Tuning – The pilot screw can be fully closed to allow idling.

    Recently, I have been posting about tuning the FCR at low throttle opening. This time, it's about adjusting the pilot screw. There are many posts written about it depending on the time, place, and occasion. People say different things. The information provided also varies depending on the source, such as magazines and online articles.

  • FCR Tuning – Air Screw Optimization

    I think the proper way to return the air screw is about 1.5 turns. When I first started playing with the CBX1000 FCR, I changed the slow jet a lot. When I didn't know how to tune it, I just changed everything I could get my hands on. Now I'm trying to avoid changing the SJ as much as possible.

  • The difficulty of FCR setting changes depending on whether it is quick throttle or normal throttle.

    My CBX1000 used to have a very cool BITO machined throttle. I used it for almost 20 years, but I sold it because I changed it to an active Quick throttle. One of the recent themes in tuning the FCR is the feeling of acceleration when opening the throttle suddenly.

  • The surprising moment when I tried tuning my own FCR – for beginners – Failures 3/3

    In the setting of the CBX1000 FCR, there is one part about what went well, but three parts about what went wrong. It is true that people often learn from their mistakes. So let's get started!

  • The surprising moment when I tried tuning my own FCR – for beginners – Failures 2/3

    This is the middle part. This blog post is more about setting up the FCR of the CBX1000 than about setting up the FCR. Of course, there may be some parts that are useful for those who are setting up the FCR of the SR.

  • The surprising moment when I tried tuning my own FCR – for beginners – Failures 1/3

    The other day, I posted about the good things about setting up the FCR of my CBX1000 by myself, but this time I'm writing about the things I failed to do. I was particularly surprised by the things I wouldn't have failed to do if I had asked someone for advice instead of setting up the FCR by myself, and I'll write about the things I failed to do because I didn't know the information beforehand.

  • The surprising moment when I tuned my FCR by myself – for beginners – Good things

    It's been about two years since I started tuning the CBX1000 FCR in earnest. I'll write about the things that moved me and surprised me while tuning the FCR. I'll write about the good things.

  • FCR Tuning – Full throttle! Check the main jet for each gear

    This is my method for setting the main jet of the CBX1000 FCR. Use a chassis dynamometer. This is written in a slightly abstract way, not in a precise way.

  • FCR Tuning – Tuning becomes easier if you install an air-fuel ratio meter.

    I have a PLX-DM-6 on my CBX1000. I see a lot of different expressions on the internet for carburetor settings, such as rich, lean, bumpy, and overhanging, rather than FCR settings. These are just the expressions used by the writers, so I'm not sure if they apply to the settings of my motorcycle.

  • FCR Tuning – Look at the air-fuel ratio during acceleration, not partial

    Looking back on this year, there are some things I pay attention to when setting up the CBX1000 FCR that I didn't do in 2021. I try not to look at the air-fuel ratio when in partial. Partial means a stable riding state with the throttle fixed. The following post is written under the assumption that an air-fuel ratio meter is installed.

  • FCR Tuning – The tuning of the BITO is excellent when shipped!

    This is about the presetting of the FCR of the CBX1000. I called BITO to inquire about a custom order for a JN for the FCR. When I ordered the JN about half a year ago, they told me about the initial settings of the FCR. *Please note that the truth of what is written on the Internet is not certain.

  • FCR Tuning – Where should I tune the main jet at full throttle?

    This is about the main jet settings for the CBX1000. You may not need to worry about this too much on a small motorcycle, but where should you set the main jet on a large motorcycle? There is only one answer. [Chassis dynamo] Nowhere else to do it other than on the chassis dynamo. You can sign a contract for about 200,000 yen per month.

  • Selecting a jet needle for the CBX1000 FCR model – I want to choose something other than the 90FXM

    The current CBX1000 FCR jet needle shipped by BITO is apparently 90FXM#3. I called to ask. The 90FXM has a special cut-out with an [X]. Normally it's [T]. I don't want to change the taper angle, but I'd like to change the straight diameter in various ways, but there are no options.

  • Riding is fun when you attach a cowl to a naked motorcycle

    Driving review with CBX400F Integra cowl installed on CBX. I'm not talking about how easy it is to drive without the wind, or how it looks, but it's a lot of fun to throw it around and knock it over. My riding technique is rather poor. And if anything, it feels like a straight line number.

  • FCR Tuning – How to Adjust the AS Air Screw and PS Pilot Screw

    I will write about my own method of adjusting the FCR screw for the CBX1000 FCR setting. There may be better ways, but this may be useful for CBX1000 owners who are just starting to set up their FCR. In my opinion, adjusting and synchronizing the screws on a 6-cylinder engine is more of a hassle than it is difficult.

  • Does the CBX1000 require an FCR accelerator pump?

    I'm writing about whether the CBX1000 needs an FCR acceleration pump. I want to make effective use of what I can use. Keihin also uses this mechanism because it is necessary. It is said that single engines such as the SR have too much total discharge. I think that the timing of the start of discharge should be decided more strictly than the total discharge amount.

  • Frame mount cowl installation cost – for CBX400F Integra installation

    I saw a cowl for the CB750F being put up for sale, as well as a cowl that was attached to the CBX. Just buying it is not the end, so please use it as a reference for what you need and what to do after you buy it. Frame-mounted cowls are not just a DIY job that you can install after purchasing them.

  • FCR Tuning – Throttle opening 1/16 determined by straight diameter and slow jet

    This is a story about when I used a jet needle that I bought a few years ago for setting the FCR of my CBX1000 but hardly used. The other day, I looked back at the past logs about the changes in the straight diameter of the SJ and JN. My experience is different from that of my past self, so the accuracy and precision of what I have written down will be different.

  • FCR Tuning – Jet needle changed to 90FTN. I was concerned about the straight diameter – 22/11/15

    This is a test run after changing the jet needle of the CBX FCR. The purpose is to check whether the straight diameter of the jet needle is good or bad at low throttle opening. I have been selecting a jet needle for the slow jet 48 for a while now. As a result of the test run, the acceleration is so good that I don't want to touch it for a while.

  • FCR – The fuel line should be angled so that fuel can flow easily.

    CBX is a forced open/close type gasoline cock. About the fuel line Although it is a short path during the process of sending fuel from the gasoline tank to the carburetor, air may become trapped. It's not just the angle of the fuel line, but also the nature of the filter that makes it difficult for fuel to flow.

  • FCR Tuning-Adjust the air screw with a digital tachometer-22/11/10

    Fine adjustment of the air screw and pilot screw positions. Until now, we had determined the position of the air screw based on a test run. Of course, I also use the air-fuel ratio meter as a reference. The position of the air screw is determined based on a test run. I purchased a digital tachometer.

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