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Surfing Chapter Twenty Five: Tombstones

The next day we decided on a change of scenery, we pulled up stumps and took the bus up the sandy desert track a few Kilometers further North to Tombstones.

2022/07/20 15:59

Surfing Chapter Twenty Four: The Big Swell (Day one)/ｻｰﾌｨﾝ第24章:巨大なスウェル(1日目)

We had two more calm days at the Bluff before a rumor began to spread around camp that a big swell was on the way. We had swum with turtles, ridden up sand dunes, and the fishing had been great. We used up a whole bottle of soy sauce just on sushi alone... On the fourth morning we awoke to long sw

2022/07/06 13:37